I did it—but I wouldn’t have survived without a Chinese-speaking travel companion. I relied on them completely for navigating routes, purchasing tickets (which you need for almost everything, including parks), and even ordering coffee.
Here’s where I went wrong: I assumed all VPNs were created equal—big mistake. Fortunately, I had downloaded Alipay and WeChat before leaving home, linked them to my bank card, and thought I was all set. Turns out, I wasn’t.
The Arrival Reality Check
Landing at Beijing Daxing International Airport, I quickly realized things work very differently here. My first hint? I couldn’t connect to the airport Wi-Fi. The second? When I tried booking a Forbidden City tour at an airport tourism kiosk, payment became an issue. With no cell service or Wi-Fi access, I handed the agent my credit card. He held it up, turned it around and looked at it with the most puzzled expression. I might as well have handed him a brick, which is about as useful as a credit card here.
After checking into my (thankfully prepaid) hotel, my first mission was to get a SIM card. While available at the airport, I opted to get some sleep first. The next morning, after a bit of searching, I secured one at Zhōngguó Yídòng (China Mobile), a China Telecom franchisee. For roughly $40 CAD, I had more than enough data for my two-week stay. If you’re visiting, I recommend overestimating your data needs—exceeding your limit can be costly.
Once my phone was up and running, I had to re-add my bank card to WeChat and Alipay, a process that required verification codes from my bank in Canada. If you’re planning a trip, make sure someone back home can receive the codes for you, or contact your bank in advance to set up an alternate verification method.
Navigating the Subway
With Alipay finally working, getting around Beijing became much easier. Above-ground travel offers great views, but the subway is by far the fastest, most efficient way to explore the city.
Security checks are routine at every station, but they’re quick and seamless. Bags go through scanners, and passengers with small purses get a brief visual inspection—no major delays.
Beijing’s transit system is massive. Imagine Toronto and all its surrounding cities—Etobicoke, Mississauga, Vaughan, Richmond Hill, Markham, and beyond—connected by a single, integrated system that’s reliable, accessible, and has washrooms at every station. That’s Beijing’s subway.
ABOVE: With millions relying on Beijing’s extensive subway system, I couldn’t help but ask a local what happens when it breaks down—thinking of Ottawa’s troubled LRT. Their response was blunt: “It never happens.” RIGHT: The subway is fast, efficient, and incredibly affordable, with payment made simply by scanning a QR code.
Tickets can be purchased at self-serve kiosks using WeChat or Alipay, but the easiest option is scanning the Alipay transport QR code directly at the turnstile. When visiting new cities like Nanjing and Shanghai, Alipay prompts you to update your QR code, and you’re good to go.
Fares vary by distance, but most trips cost around 3 Yuan (about 61 cents CAD). The airport train is pricier, but public transport is incredibly affordable overall. My flight home coincided with a national holiday, so I opted for a Didi (China’s Uber), which cost about $30.
ABOVE: Every subway platform is equipped with washrooms—clean and well-maintained, though toilet paper isn’t always provided. RIGHT: Subway station floors feature both tactile and visual aids for blind and visually impaired passengers. On multiple occasions, I was impressed to see station staff personally escorting blind and disabled passengers to and from the trains.
Dining in Beijing
With an overwhelming number of restaurants, snack kiosks, and the ever-present Waimai—scooter-
Most restaurants, including coffee shops and small family-run eateries, rely on QR code ordering systems. You scan a code at your table, select your dishes, and pay directly through the app. Street vendors and some mall food stalls still take verbal orders, but even then, payment is done digitally—either by scanning the vendor’s QR code and manually entering the price or having them scan the one on your WeChat or Alipay app.
ABOVE (LEFT TO RIGHT): Some of the quirky and healthy street food options in Beijing: A woman sells Tanghulu—a traditional fruit snack encrusted in sugar syrup—from her tricycle; sweet potatoes are a popular street food during the winter in Beijing; a savoury, vegetable-filled Kaolengmian was my go-to snack.
With no taxes or tipping, the payment process is seamless. Even the smallest vendors—like a woman I saw selling umbrellas outside a subway station—carry laminated WeChat and Alipay QR codes, ready to process transactions in seconds.
Beijing’s food scene is as rich as its history. The city is famous for Peking duck, hotpot, and Zhajiangmian, along with popular street snacks like Kaolengmian, Jianbing, and roasted sweet potatoes. Fresh fruit vendors are everywhere, as are nut stalls and traditional sweet shops. Halal restaurants are common, as are Korean BBQ spots.
ABOVE: China has revolutionized consumer payments with Alipay and WeChat Pay, using QR codes to make transactions seamless and effortless. RIGHT: Hotpot restaurants are very popular in Beijing.
Despite the variety, one of the most refreshing aspects of dining in Beijing was the relative scarcity of fast-food chains, except for KFC, which seems to be as ubiquitous as in North America. The food I tried was healthy, flavourful, and affordable.
The coffee culture is thriving, too. Local chains like Luckin and Peets Coffee are found everywhere. My personal favourite? Luckin’s coconut latte—smooth, rich, and slightly sweet. While craft beer culture isn’t as widespread as in the West, I did stop by Jing-A Brewing for a pint, which was well worth it. That said, Western-style pubs and sports bars aren’t prevalent in Beijing.
Parks and Historic Sites
Built between 1406 and 1420, the Forbidden City is a breathtaking must-see. Compared to it, the grandest European castles seem small, almost modest. The Great Wall, an astonishing feat of engineering, is another bucket-list experience. Beyond these icons, Beijing’s many parks and temples are stunning reflections of the city’s 3,000-year history.
ABOVE: Four of the seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites in Beijing (CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT): The Mutianyu Great Wall, one of the best-preserved sections; the Gate of Supreme Harmony, a stunning structure within the Forbidden City; the Temple of Heaven, where Ming and Qing emperors prayed for bountiful harvests; and Zhengyangmen, the historic city gate south of Tiananmen.
Ask a local about the meaning behind a colour, a fruit, or the curve of a roofline, and prepare for a deep, multi-layered explanation. Chinese culture is intricate, with symbolism embedded in nearly everything.
ABOVE: Theme of the Five Great Mountains exhibition at the National Art Museum in Beijing.
This was especially evident at the Calligraphy Couplets on the Theme of the Five Great Mountains exhibition at the National Art Museum during the Chinese Lunar New Year. The five sacred mountains have inspired scholars and poets for centuries, with many leaving their words inscribed at these sites. This exhibition brought those inscriptions to life, displaying ancient calligraphy filled with wisdom and reflection. The museum was packed the day I visited, with people of all ages contemplating the words of their ancestors.
ABOVE: A sampling of people dressed in Hanfu, the traditional attire of the Han people, worn for over three millennia.
Another striking display of Chinese pride was the vibrant, intricately designed costumes seen at every landmark I visited. My trip coincided with the Lunar New Year, bringing an influx of domestic tourists to the capital. From entire families to groups of young women, I saw many locals dressed in stunning replicas of imperial attire from various dynastic periods. Known as Hanfu, these traditional garments were often paired with elaborate hairstyles and ornate headpieces. This popular tradition makes for the ultimate Insta-worthy photos!
ABOVE: A view of Beihai Park from the White Pagoda. Once part of the imperial garden, Beihai Park features stunning architectural relics from its royal past, with a vast central lake at its heart. This historic garden, dating back to 1166, has been beautifully preserved and restored.
Safety
Two weeks in Beijing might seem like a long time to spend in one city, but with its vast expanse of 16,410 square kilometres (and a population of 22 million), there’s no shortage of things to explore. The city boasts seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites along with countless cultural and architectural gems like the Peking Opera, the historic hutongs, and the impressive Olympic Park. Simply put, Beijing is a city where there’s always more to see and do.
Despite its immense size and density, I have never felt safer or more welcome. Security cameras are everywhere, and uniformed guards stand at the entrances to nearly every site. However, as a tourist, I found them to be friendly and helpful, often happy to give directions or even take photos. At the Great Wall, one particularly enthusiastic guard fully embraced the role of photographer, capturing multiple shots from different angles. The heightened security presence offers visitors peace of mind—walking alone at night, even down a dark alley, is completely safe. You can even leave your shopping unattended on a subway platform or sidewalk while using the washroom without a second thought.
ABOVE: A public space in the 798 Art District sits quiet on a chilly January night but will buzz with activity when warmer weather returns.
Final Thoughts
Having a VPN and a smartphone with a Chinese phone number is essential for all visitors. Still, thanks to my Chinese-speaking travel companion, I had a fantastic experience—even without the ability to Google for additional information on landmarks, sites and cuisines or being able to depend on Google Translate.
Instead of relying on my phone, I was fully present in my surroundings. The China I experienced was proud, super welcoming, and deeply rooted in tradition. If WeChat and Alipay ever introduce built-in foreign language translation, travel here would become even easier for non-Chinese speakers.
Until then, my advice? Plan ahead, take a second smartphone (make it an iPhone) or purchase an e-SIM in advance, embrace the unexpected, and savour every moment.
ABOVE: Beyond its rich cultural and historic sites, Beijing boasts countless shopping malls—many, like Taikoo Li Sanlitun North, showcase ultra-luxury brands.
For more information on travel to China, read our articles, The China You Don’t See, and China Unveiled: What to See, Do, And Know Before You Go, by Analise Saavedra.
ALL PHOTOS: Karen Temple
