The term “Old Florida” invokes a nostalgic vision of a Florida that existed before the rapid urbanization and commercialization that has characterized its more recent decades. It speaks of a time when the state was a wild and untouched paradise, with pristine beaches, dense mangroves, and sprawling wetlands.
A time of simple, unhurried lifestyles, where the connection between the land and its people was intimate and profound, “Old Florida” evokes images of moss-draped oak trees, old wooden fishing docks, and mom-and-pop shops. Before the theme parks, high-rises, and bustling resorts, Florida was a tranquil escape defined by its natural beauty and Southern charm.
While there are many magnificent things about present-day Florida, I was pleased to find that “Old Florida” with a modern twist exists in the present, and its location is Amelia Island, located in northeastern Florida, thirty minutes from Jacksonville. It’s a place where timeless beauty meets modern luxury.
ABOVE: There is always cold beer and live music at Sliders Seaside Grill’s beach-side bar.
This unspoiled barrier island stretches for 13 miles, bounded by the Atlantic Ocean on one side and the intracoastal waters of the Amelia River and the St Mary’s River on the other three sides. Its beaches are renowned for their soft, golden sands and tranquil waves, making them a haven for water recreation and sun worshippers. Interspersed with these idyllic beaches are outcroppings of coquina limestone, a testament to the island’s ancient geological past.
There are numerous accommodation options on the Island. The Residence Inn by Marriott Amelia Island has all the modern comforts and island charm you would expect when visiting ‘Old Florida’. The staff are friendly and helpful; rooms are modern with a small kitchen, coffee service, wifi and a complimentary sit-down buffet breakfast is served each morning in the hotel. There is a great pool, and the beach is a block away.
Amelia Island has so much to offer. Whether it’s a history tour, cycling, boating or fishing, below are some of our faves and trip highlights:
ABOVE: Fort Clinch State Park is a 4-kilometre square park on the northernmost tip of Amelia Island that features a campground, beaches for fishing and looking for shark teeth, self-guided nature trails, and the 19th-century historic fort.
Historic Fort Clinch State Park is nestled on the island’s northern tip. It spans over 1,400 acres and six miles of pristine beaches anchored by a meticulously preserved 19th-century fort, which played pivotal roles during the Civil War and Spanish-American War. Today, it’s a haven for nature enthusiasts who visit to see its majestic live oaks draped in Spanish moss, creating a unique canopy over picturesque trails and making it perfect for hiking and biking. Birdwatching is also popular here because of the myriad of species that make the park their home, from ospreys to songbirds. There are camping facilities that range from shaded woodland sites to beachside spots.
ABOVE: We bought our non-resident fishing license ($17) and met up with local beach fishing guide Josh Voss on the beach in front of historic Fort Clinch for some surf fishing.
A popular activity for locals and tourists alike is surf fishing on the beach at Fort Clinch State Park. Boss Voss Charters is one of the best on the Island, and you’ll spend a morning or afternoon with Jake, an angling enthusiast, who can give you cursory lessons in the gear, casting, the thrill of the chase and if you’re lucky (like us) catch yourself a big fish!!
ABOVE: On the first Wednesday and the third Friday of the month, the Amelia Island Museum of History hosts historical talks. We took part in a Wednesday talk on the eight flags of Amelia Island; it was simply fantastic.
The charming, small and perfect Amelia Island Museum Of History is a must-stop on any visit to the Island. Go for a deep dive into the island’s fascinating 4,000-year-old story. From Native American settlements to Spanish missions, the museum beautifully chronicles the island’s past.
Discovered by the French in 1562, Amelia Island has a fascinating history. From its French origins, Amelia Island has been under the flags of eight different nations during its turbulent past – though the “Eight Flags” concept is a marketing invention, the actual historical sequence can be a bit more complicated.
These flags, representing the various rulers who claimed dominion over the island at different periods, are the French flag (1562–1565): The French were the first Europeans to set foot on Amelia Island. They named it Île de Mai. Jean Ribault, the French explorer, established a short-lived settlement before the Spanish took control. The Spanish flag (1565–1763, 1784–1821): The Spanish were dominant on Amelia Island for two distinct periods, with a brief British interruption between them. The British flag (1763–1784): The island, renamed Egmont Isle by the British, was part of their colonization after the Treaty of Paris at the end of the French and Indian War. The Patriots flag (1812): In an effort to claim Florida for the United States during the Patriot War, insurgents, with tacit U.S. backing, briefly overthrew Spanish rule on the island. The Green Cross of Florida Flag (1817): Sir Gregor MacGregor, a Scottish soldier of fortune, captured the island and claimed it for the “Green Cross,” but his rule was short-lived. The Mexican Revolutionary Flag (1817): After MacGregor’s departure, the island was taken over by Mexican Revolutionaries, signifying allegiance to the revolutionary cause in South America. The United States Flag (1821–present): Florida was ceded to the U.S. in 1821, and the United States flag began flying over Amelia Island and has continued to do so to the present day.
It’s worth noting that there is a flag not mentioned here, the Confederate Flag. During the Civil War, the island was under Confederate control for a brief period before being taken by Union forces in 1862. Hence, the “Eight Flags” over the island. However, the seven flags mentioned above are the ones most frequently acknowledged in historical recountings.
ABOVE: Riptide Watersports is a thrilling adventure and one of the only ways to access Cumberland Island, home to hundreds of wild horses.
Riptide Watersports Rentals and Tours — This was a trip highlight for sure. There is nothing like experiencing the thrill of gliding across the water at speeds of up to 25 mph in a state-of-the-art CraigCat catamaran. It combines the performance of a sports boat with the genuine comfort of a runabout. These ‘CraigCats’ offer unmatched high-speed stability and cutting-edge handling. As you ride, you’ll see stunning local wildlife: playful dolphins, graceful manatees, and even the awe-inspiring sight of wild horses roaming free on Cumberland Island. There are no worries as you are with seasoned guides. Each CraigCat accommodates two people — a driver and a passenger. It’s an unforgettable, exciting and fun excursion.
ABOVE: An e-bike excursion with Pedego is a great way to see the Fernandina Beach area, including the natural beauty of the saltwater marshes and the incredible driftwood on Boneyard Beach (RIGHT) at Little Talbot Island State Park.
Pedego Electric Bikes Amelia Island – If you want to see the island on two wheels, then one option is e-bikes. You can ride around historic downtown Fernandina Beach, an experience enhanced by the bikes from Pedego, or take a nature tour along the inner pathways and beaches. Well worth the rentals, this tour gives you a real sense of the island. Our guide, Amy, was a wealth of information, providing great restaurant suggestions and must-sees during our stay.
ABOVE: Since the locals swim at American Beach, you know it’s the best.
American Beach – Founded in 1935 during the segregation era, this beach holds deep roots in African-American heritage, serving as a sanctuary for Black families to relax and revel in seaside joys. Today, it is a haven for tourists and locals alike. Its dunes, among the tallest in Florida, lead to the refreshing sunny beaches of the Atlantic.
Amelia River Cruises & Charters – This is a must-do for any first-time visitor to Amelia Island. The tour gives you a sense of the Island from the water. We saw wild horses on the channel shores, dolphins, manatees, numerous bird species and even fish jumping from the water. The Captain ensures everyone has a chance to view the wildlife, and the first mate relays a wonderful narrative about the history of the area. There are restrooms, and you can bring small coolers with drinks and snacks on board.
ABOVE: Stop by the oldest bar in Florida, the Palace Saloon, on Centre Street for a Pickle Back — a local shot that features a pickle juice chaser. (RIGHT) A view of the shops on Centre Street.
Amelia Island has so many great food and restaurant options that it’s hard to know where to start. Shrimping was the leading industry until the Great Depression. The island celebrates the crustaceans annually at the Isle of Eight Flags Shrimp Boat Festival, held in May.
The Amelia Island Shrimp Challenge is a mobile app that highlights 15 local restaurants where you can enjoy everything from a plate of peel-yourself shrimp to finer cuisine featuring the beloved shrimp. Collect points as you fill up on shrimp and redeem them for shrimpy swag. Here is a list of can’t-miss restaurants we sampled.
Salt Life Food – Shack-fresh seafood, a quintessentially relaxed beachy ambiance and a casual vibe make it a hotspot for both tourists and locals. The services, live music, energy and atmosphere at the beach bar is superb.
ABOVE: PJD’s on 2nd Street is a great spot to rehydrate.
PJD’s Beer and Wine Garden – Nestled beside Pajama Life in the heart of downtown Fernandina Beach, PJD’s offers a cozy beer and wine haven shaded perfectly for those sunny days. Go for lunch and try their eclectic range of beers and have one of their great Cubano sandwiches. Furthermore, you may even have the pleasure of chatting with the very hospitable owner, Pyjama Dave.
ABOVE: Make sure to download the app before you go; the Salty Pelican is the perfect place to rack up some points on the Amelia Island Shrimp Challenge.
The Salty Pelican Bar & Grill – A popular spot in the heart of town that overlooks the Amelia River. We came during a busy lunchtime on a hot day, sat on the top deck at the bar, and ordered a couple of cold beers, a plate of fresh peel-and-eat shrimp, and fish tacos (Mahi Mahi)!
ABOVE: Story and Song began as a bookstore but has morphed beautifully into a centre for arts and culture in Fernandina Beach.
Story & Song Bookstore is a quaint space where literature meets gourmet coffee and great lunches. This is a popular local spot that also has great local gifts. In addition to creating an exceptional bookstore and cafe, owners Mark and Donna Paz Kaufman have given the community of Fernandina Beach a cultural hub. Like many small businesses that lend a sense of heart and soul to their locale, Story and Song is much more than a bookstore. From the virtual story times and author interviews during the pandemic to their second-floor, non-profit community event space that hosts music festivals and other public events, Story and Song is a real treasure. Undoubtedly, it’s no wonder the business was awarded Business of The Year in its first year of operation.
ABOVE: The modern Amelia Island Brewing Company (AIBC) is another pub worth visiting on Centre Street.
Amelia Island Brewing Company – The brews here are distinct and capture the spirit of Amelia. From crisp, refreshing pilsners that pay homage to old-world brewing techniques, to robust stouts with hints of local ingredients like sea salt caramel and Florida orange zest, there’s a brew for every palate. Seasonal offerings rotate regularly, ensuring there’s always something new to sample. The food menu, designed to complement the beverage offerings, features an array of gastro-pub delights. Fresh seafood, sourced from local waters, takes centre stage in dishes like beer-battered fish tacos or spicy shrimp po’ boys. Traditional bar fare is elevated, with burgers seasoned with house-made aiolis and wings glazed in unique brew-infused sauces. The atmosphere effortlessly marries rustic charm with contemporary elegance. Exposed brick walls and wooden beams create a cozy ambiance, while modern lighting fixtures and artworks give a nod to the present.
Amelia Island has a timeless allure. Its beaches offer solace to sun-seekers and adventurers alike, while the island’s dense forests and diverse ecosystems reflect the calm of “Old Florida.” It’s a place where modern amenities meet old-world grace. Amelia Island is not just a destination, but a place you’ll yearn to return to.
For more information on visiting Amelia Island and Fernandina Beach, visit ameliaisland.com.
For more on Florida, check out this article.
