Baños, Ecuador and the Secrets of the Llanganates

Written by Analise Saavedra, June 24, 2023

Photos by Steve and Analise Saavedra

My dad told me one of my favourite legends in the shadows of the Llanganates mountains in Ecuador, a mountain range known for its dense and disconcerting forests which few dare to explore. According to my dad’s version of the story, some of the few courageous adventurers were Atahualpa’s men. After the capture and murder of the Incan emperor, the gold, en route for his ransom, was diverted and hidden where no Spaniard could find it — the depths of the Llaganates wedged between the Amazon and the Andes.

To this day, the mountains guard the secrets of their ancestors. Although versions of this story vary, the legend accurately portrays the strength, beauty and mystery of the Llanganates mountains and the nearby town of Baños.

Located in the shadow of the constantly active Volcano Tungurahua, the small town of Baños has a variety of legends surrounding its misty mountains and deep, lush forests. According to Quechua folklore, Baños is Tungurahua’s child who fiercely protects and blesses it with natural springs. However, when the Spanish arrived, they created their own explanation for the magical hostprings.

Many eyewitness accounts report several apparitions of the Virgin Mary, particularly around the 260ft waterfall of Cascada del Virgin. These stories eventually contributed to the town’s official name, Baños de Agua Santa, or Baths of Holy Water. Regardless of the origin stories, Baños is guaranteed to offer a variety of memorable experiences for travellers of all budgets and interests. Located three hours from Quito, Baños is well worth a visit.

What to do in Baños

One of its most well-known sites is Casa del Arbol, where a ginormous swing overlooks the valley. On a clear day, you may have the privilege of watching the surrounding mountain peaks tower over the town below. The entrance fee is $2 and allows access to three giant swings and a zipline for kids, perfect for people of all ages. After the adrenaline rush, my family’s tradition is to drive down the road to Cafe del Cielo and soak in the views with a side of their savoury crepes.

Baños has endless opportunities to explore a variety of waterfalls along Ruta de las Cascadas or “The Waterfall Route”. This 20-kilometre-long route covers 11 waterfalls, most commonly explored by bike. The rental typically costs $5-10 a day.

The most famous waterfall is Pailón del Diablo, located outside of Baños (don’t worry- buses offer rides to the waterfall for as cheap as $1). The hike is relatively short and doable for even those who have just removed their wisdom teeth (speaking from personal experience). The end of the hike is complete with a restaurant, suspension bridge, and an 80-metre waterfall — perfect for a good photo.

For adrenaline junkies, Baños offers a variety of thrilling experiences such as canyoning, water rafting, ziplines and bungee jumping. Throughout Baños, multiple locations, from bridges to valleys, are available for bungee jumping. In addition, the array of waterfalls are surrounded by steep rock faces over powerful river currents, perfect for whitewater rafting. Many tour companies offer day trips featuring a combination of these activities.

As inferred by its name, Baños is known for its thermal hot springs, a highlight for me since childhood. Historically, the hot springs were a resting place for tired backpackers until the tourism industry realised their potential. Today, the hot springs and local spas are perfect for exhausted adrenaline junkies or those trying to relax.

El Salado Hot Springs and Piscinas de la Virgen offer water of different temperatures for all in need of relaxation at a low price. There are also a variety of spas which offer saunas, mud or herbal steam baths, facial treatments and massages.

Baños is also known for its handicrafts, souvenirs and Melcocha, a local sugarcane speciality. Throughout the central plaza, vendors sell an array of souvenirs or handicrafts like jewellery, which will likely be purchased after some light bargaining. Melcocha, a candy native to Baños, is pulled in front of many downtown stalls and is just as satisfying to eat as its creation is to watch. If you aren’t already sugared-out, many street vendors also offer bags of fresh sugar cane for as cheap as one dollar, a perfect post-adventure treat.

Regardless of my variety of visits to Baños, without a doubt, a highlight is always the beautiful landscape. No matter which activities you choose to experience, the town, the mountains and the waterfalls seem to preserve and emanate the legends, secrets and beauty of the area, untouched by time.

F0r more on South American destinations, check out this article.