Biking, Bars and Bistros: Escape to Montreal
Montreal, a city that seamlessly blends old-world charm with modern flair, is a favourite weekend escape destination. The streets pulse with infectious energy, and the multitude of neighbourhoods are fun to explore. When it comes to nightlife, nothing beats Montreal. From trendy cocktail bars to lively clubs, the city comes alive after dark.
The city has done a great job of adding public spaces in almost every neighbourhood. You’ll find sections of St. Catherine Street carved out with seating that takes the form of urban gardens while on the southern pedestrian section hip Boul. St. Denis has large, funky, modern-art-looking structures that are great for sitting down. The local parks are outfitted with tables and chairs reminiscent of an urban French scene.
Montreal is a super bike-friendly city. If you don’t want to bring your own, you can rent one from a local bike shop like Ça Roule, conveniently located on Rue de la Commune E. in Old Montreal, or download the app and use one of the ubiquitous Bixy bikes. Unlike bike sharing in Toronto, Bixi allows you to rent two bikes simultaneously, a plus for couples. Bikes are permitted on the Metro, although there are restrictions to non-high-volume times, including festivals and rush hour, and a maximum of two per car.
Like Ottawa, Montreal has a canal, which was declared a National Historic Site of Canada in 1996, and in 2002, it was reopened to recreational boaters. Drop down from the hustle and bustle of the city streets and cycle alongside the Lachine Canal as it winds its way from the old Port to the Lachine Canal Locks. The multipurpose path allows for a vibrant, lush alternative to bike across town or pedal to the visitor’s centre at the locks; it’s a great spot to stop for a picnic lunch.
On the way back to Old Montreal, take a right at the Peel Basin in Griffintown and head under the Bonaventure Expressway toward Avenue Pierre Dupuy. The ride takes you past the famous—yet looking these days like it needs a facelift—Habitat 67 urban living experiment by architect Moshe Safdie.
Not long after, you’ll find yourself crossing the Saint Lawrence River. Take the first left down to Ilse des Soeurs and Parc Jean Drapeau, or keep going a little further to Ils des Soeurs, home of the Casino de Montreal and the famous Circuit Gille Villeneuve. It’s fun riding your bike on the actual race track, especially if you are a fan of F1 racing and have taken in a Grand Prix race in Montreal. Despite being designed for high speeds, the posted limit is 30 km, making it super safe for cyclists.
If all that biking has you worn out, stop to cool off at Jean Doré beach, bike back to the impressive outdoor pool that is close to the Biodome, or, my personal favourite, bike back to Old Montreal and check yourself into Bota Bota on the water at the end of McGill Street. The thermal spa is a repurposed ferry that was once a floating theatre. The hot-cold-rest-repeat circuit is super relaxing, and after all the biking, you will likely fall asleep in one of the quiet rooms, especially if you head to the hammock room in the garden part of the spa’s land-based area. If you are thinking of visiting on the weekend, make sure to book ahead.
Now that you are relaxed, you’ll want to refuel. We have compiled a list of a few of our favourite bars and bistros, all of which are easily accessible on foot (or bike) from Bota Bota.
Les Soeurs Grises
32 rue McGill
Les Soeurs Grises is a hangout for locals, many of whom pop in after work for the traditional Quebec cinq-à-sept, known elsewhere as happy hour. It is a small brew pub with really good beer and basic yet delicious pub fare, including the pulled pork sandwich!
bblsg.com
Le Pub Saint Pierre
410 rue Saint Pierre
The Saint Pierre is an old favourite with a great vibe. Some of the menu items have an Asian twist. It’s small, so when you go, make a reservation.
www.pubsaintpierre.ca
Holder Restaurant
407 McGill Street
The Holder is a big, bustling French restaurant with the feel of an oversized European brasserie. It offers a solid menu and good food.
restaurantholder.com
Photo: @holderrestaurant
Vallier Bistro
445 McGill Street
Vallier, a go-to favourite in MTL, offers Quebec pub fare in a comfortable French Bistro setting. Sit at the bar and chat with Stephen, who has been there for 11 years. If you like gin, he will introduce you to excellent options from Quebec.
vallierbistro.com
Time Out Market Montréal
705 rue St. Catherine Ouest
Located in the old Eaton Centre, Time Out Market Montréal is a European concept food court with 15 fast-food-style counters from some of the best restaurants in MTL. The concept is to give everyone the opportunity to access some of the best food in MTL. It has become a gathering place for friends and a destination for groups.
www.timeoutmarket.com/montreal
Gaspar Brasserie Française
89 rue de la Commune
Le Gaspar offers upscale French cuisine in a beautiful heritage building in Old Montreal. The night we went, a jazz quartet was playing, making it a memorable meal.
gasparmtl.com
PHOTO: @gasparmtl
Pub Work & Wolfman
139 rue Saint Paul ouest
When you enter the Wolf and Workman, you see the small bar, but if you look to your right, it opens to quite a large restaurant. It is one of the few Old MTL pubs with a courtyard patio. It is a favourite lunch spot.
www.wolfandworkman.com
PubJelly
600 rue Marguerite D’Youville/corner McGill
PubJelly has earned a spot on my MTL bucket list. Although I haven’t dined there yet, the moment I stepped inside and spoke with the staff, I knew I had to add this elegantly adorned, upscale pub/bistro to my list of places to try.
Bar George at Le Mont Stephen
1440 Drummond
Located in the Golden Mile area of downtown Montreal, Bar George is the farthest from Old Montreal but is well worth the walk. Set in the home of railway financier Lord George Stephen, Bar George’s wood panelling and stained glass are a sight to see. Its great vibe makes it the perfect destination for cocktails after a day of meetings. The bar offers a full menu as well as bar bites.
lemonstephen.com
