Colorado Ski Country
Written by Karen Temple, December 2015.
With 26 mountain resorts, Colorado is one incredible ski destination. There are so many hills there is almost one for every letter of the alphabet. The best name goes to Purgatory but if that does not convey a comfy cozy feeling for your next family trip, head to Steamboat.
Steamboat Springs is not just a resort, it’s a real town. Part cowboy, part ski and a whole lot of laid back, friendly people. The town was named for what fur trappers mistakenly thought was the sound of a steamboat on the local Yampa River. In fact, the hissing noise was from one of many area hot springs. More Olympians are said to come from Steamboat Springs than any other American town. You can’t miss Mount Howelson and its ski jump that seems to sit smack in the middle of town.
One of those local alpine ski legends is the late Wallace Werner, known as Buddy to his friends and fans, he was one of the first Americans to win big internationally. When he died tragically in an avalanche, the U.S. Congress changed the name of one of the local peaks to Mount Werner in his honour. Steamboat, the ski hill, covers six peaks including Mount Werner. With 1200 hectares and an 1118 vertical, there is something here for everyone. It is a real family destination, not highbrow like some of its Colorado cousins. The ski village is huge. There’s an abundance of accommodation within a few hundred feet of the base. But if you are not in walking distance to the lifts, no worry, an extensive free shuttle system will take you around the village or into town. If you ski for five or more days, your kids 12 and under ski for free. It’s a great deal. Of course, kids five and under ski free anytime.
On the slopes, it is hard not to miss Billy Kidd sporting his iconic cowboy hat. In 1964, he was the first American to win an Olympic medal in alpine skiing and is the long-standing director of skiing at Steamboat. When you go, check to see if he is skiing that day and tag along for a run.
It was spring when we visited so we didn’t get to experience the famed “champagne powder”. Instead, the sunny 8°c was enough to bring out a randy band of bikini-clad locals skinning up the steep slope. One girl completed her look with an inner tube around her waist. From the lift, we also watched little ones wearing capes and tutus fearlessly skiing through tee pees and other obstacles in the Rough Rider Basin kids zone. It is too cute and very symbolic of the laid-back fun atmosphere of this resort. There are well-spaced trees for glade skiing, and a lot of bumps including my favourite, the Rolex. The resort is evenly split between novice and intermediate and has more challenging runs to keep the experts happy. However, there are no chutes or bowls.
After a day on the slopes, soothe your sore muscles at one of Colorado’s many hot springs like Steamboat Springs, Stawberry Park.
It’s the little things that make Winter Park great like their red wagons, perfect for hauling gear or tired little skiers.
For a day off the slopes, we went riding with former Olympic ski jumper turned alpine ski coach, Ray Heid from Del’s Triangle 3 Ranch. During the winter a shuttle makes a daily ride out to his ranch. Ray is a genuine Colorado cowboy who will spice up your Steamboat experience. His son told us that at 77, Ray still rides his horse almost daily to skin up the side of his local hill and ski down. If your not lucky enough to go trail riding with him or see him at the hill, you can’t miss the billboard at the Denver airport featuring him clad in his iconic leather coat.
The Village Information Center is a great resource for first-time visitors. There you can buy lift tickets, activity tickets and get ski and snowshoe tour info. When you are there, consider booking the Snowcat dinner. The sunset from 9,716- feet on top of Storm Peak is a beauty. If that and the five-course dinner at Four Point Lodge is not enough to entice you, the gravity defying cat ride up will excite even the most seasoned thrill seeker.
Down the highway, closer to Denver, is Winter Park. As its name suggests, it began as a true winter playground. The city of Denver still owns the hill, but it partnered with Intrawest to manage the resort. From the Cabriolet to the quaint shops and eateries, you’ll notice a Tremblant likeness in the village. The hill has been a tradition for generations of Denver residents. The Eskimo Ski Club started bringing hundreds of Denver area kids to Winter Park by train around 1940. The train eventually gave way to buses. The ski club is still in operation and is attributed with helping Winter Park achieve the status of the longest operating hill in Colorado. The train was reinstated for a 75th-anniversary celebratory run one Saturday in March, 2014. Ticket sales were so brisk that a second train was added for the following day. With the wall of weekend ski traffic, a train is an old idea that makes such great sense.
The resort likes to promote its ‘Seven Terrains’. It might sound like a marketing gimmick, but there truly are very distinct areas. The steep bumps and tree skiing of the Mary Jane are a favourite as well as the thrilling steeps of the Cirque—long ski out aside. For some quiet time, Vasquez is like having a hill to yourself. I really like the terrain this hill has to offer. The resort has fantastic adaptive ski programs for blind skiers and amputees. If you visit on the weekend, you can’t be anything but amazed at all the special athletes whizzing by.
When you go, take some time to ski at Steamboat and Winter Park. Both hills are Intrawest Resorts, so you’re in luck if you are a season’s pass holder at Tremblant. Purchase a Max Pass add-on and get five days of skiing at both Winter Park and Steamboat resorts for an additional $250 USD. Incredibly, there are no blackout dates. There are also another 20 resorts you can visit. If you’re not a Tremblant pass holder, it’s a good idea to subscribe to email mailing lists to keep abreast of rolling specials.
Not sure which hill to hit? Split your time between both and experience the difference for yourself. Getting here is an easy drive from Denver airport. Avoid the weekend traffic and spend Monday to mid-week skiing Winter Park before heading to Steamboat. Both hills are on the same stretch of highway. Because it’s a little further from Denver, Steamboat has fewer day skiers, so lift lines remain the same regardless of the day of the week. At the end of your stay, take the shuttle to nearby Hayden Airport for a connector flight to Denver.
Winter Park and Steamboat are bustling hubs of winter activity. From races to concerts and mountain-top weddings, there is a real buzz. Whatever you choose to do, make sure you bring your sunglasses and sunscreen. With 300ish days of sun a year and a mile-high elevation, your pasty-white, winter skin is susceptible to nasty burns.
winterparkresort.com steamboat.com coloradoski.com
