From West to East: A Roadtrip Through Eastern Europe

Written and Photographed by Analise Saavedra, June 1, 2023

As most of Ottawa residents are preparing for a warm summer, those of who are less a fan of the heat may already be dreaming for their next winter getaway. If this is you- look no further than a roadtrip through Europe.

In December 2022, I embarked on a two week road trip throughout Austria, Slovakia, Hungary, Croatia, Slovenia and Italy. It never took more than four hours to travel between each city, and yet each place embodied the history, beauty, and culture that make Europe renowned. 

Vienna, Austria

We began our journey in Vienna, Austria, known for music, coffee shops and pristine white buildings which sing their own unique tune of the city. Our day began at the Viennese Dream Christmas Market in front of city hall. The market effortlessly put our jetlagged heads in a cheerful spirit with an ice skating rink throughout the area, plenty of warm food and drinks and adorable Christmas gifts. 

Next, we wandered a few blocks away to Vienna’s old town, adorn in Christmas lights. We strolled past various shops until we reached St. Stephen’s Cathedral. It’s beautiful patterned roof decorated in zig-zags and diamonds immediately became one of my all time- European favourites. Constructed in 1578, St. Stephen’s Cathedral is the resting place of many important figures such as Emperor Friedrich III, Prince Eugene of Savoy and Duke Rudolph IV. The interior is decorated with gold relics, altars and side chapels offering stories of the religious past. We were lucky enough to return later just in time for their choir’s Christmas Eve concert with beautiful harmonies echoing throughout the historic church.

While St. Stephen’s Cathedral has one of the most beautiful exterior, the interior of Augustinian Church took my breath away. Built in 1327 and nestled between the Albertina and National Library, the Augustinian Church is one of the oldest in Vienna. Its interior feels reflective of the rest of Vienna with its clean white walls and simple elegance. From 1634 to 1918, the Augustinian Church was the official church court of the Habsburg monarchs. Its walls witnessed many iconic marriages such as Emperor Franz Joseph and Elisabeth of Bavaria as well as Archduchess Marie Louise and Napoleon Bonaparte.

On Christmas day, we explored the Schonbrunn grounds, starting on the trails sheltered by trees and leading to the Gloriette, one of Vienna’s finest views. After taking many photos, we headed to the courtyard for some pastries and hot chocolate from the Christmas market. We were lucky to witness live Christmas music in front of a Christmas tree nearly as tall as the palace. 

Bratislava, Slovakia

After a wonderful Christmas in Vienna, we began our short drive to Bratislava, Slovakia for a day trip. The former Hungarian capital from 1526 to 1784 is awash with history. The city skyline is contrasted between the Communist-Era, UFO bridge Most SNP and the Bratislava castle whose origins go back to 3500 BC. Built by the Boleráz culture, the castle became an important strategic centre passing from the Celts to the Romans, Slavs and Hungarians. The quaint, quiet streets compliment the simple, small and colourful buildings. For several hours we wandered through the quiet streets and appreciated small boutiques and stopped to say hi to the iconic statue, Cumil, the sewer worker. For dinner we went to the Slovak Pub for Slovakian food. We enjoyed their beef stew, chicken schnitzel and of course, bryndzové halušky, all which were tasty and at an affordable price, much needed after a long day of discovering the city.

Budapest, Hungary

Our next stop was Budapest. On our way to our adorable bed and brunch, Lujza and Koriander, we couldn’t help but embark on an unplanned expediction. The sparkle of the Hungarian Parliament Building reflecting over the Danube compelled us to pull over and appreciate it’s beauty. As one of the largest buildings in Hungary and the third largest National Assembly in the world, it is impossible not to not feel awestruck by its neogothic architecture. After taking enough photos an an attempt to capture it’s beauty, we decided to head to Fisherman’s Bastion for sunset. Originally part of the Buda castle wall as a means of defence, Fisherman’s Bastion later became named after the nearby fisherman’s town. However, it is now one of the key viewpoints to appreciate Hungary’s Parliament Building in all it’s glory at any time of the day. The sunset did not disappoint with the soft colours of the sunset perfectly shining on it’s towers. 

We dedicated the next day to understanding Hungarian history, primarily the struggles of the last century as showcased in the House of Terror. The museum is located on one of Budapest’s beautiful corner buildings, although ironically haunted by the horrors of the fascist and communist regimes. Once the headquarter of the Hungarian Nazi’s in 1937 and later the centre for communist terror organizations, “the House of Terror is more than a museum, but a demonstration that sacrifices in the name of supposed freedom were useless and that both regimes were responsible for bringing terror to the population.” To further memorialize the innocent lives lost at the hands of powerhungry regimes, it is necessary to take a moment to stop at the Shoes on the Danube Bank. These statues commemorate the innocent lives which once occupied them, the 20,000 Jews who were mercilessly executed, with only their shoes left behind. However, the preserved beauty amidst the cities’ dark political history served as a reminder of how the city endured throughout it’s struggles.

The next few days involved plenty of bar hopping and appreciating the cities’ cuisine. We frequently stopped at Christmas markets to enjoy warm Hungarian chimney cakes (Kürtőskalács) which came in a variety of flavours like cinnamon and sugar. One the highlights was without a doubt the Ruin Bars. This abandoned, graffiti scarred building was transformed into a series of bars with live music, quirky decor and bright lights. If it wasn’t for our excitement to try out the nearby Streetfood Caravan for some chicken paprikash soup, I could’ve spent hours soaking in the neon lights and quirky art decor. 

Zagreb, Croatia

We left Budapest and embarked on a three and a half hour drive to Zagreb, Croatia. Zagreb is historically a political centre with a struggle against Turkey and later an attempt at Germanization by Austria. Later on, it would become the centre of the 19th century pan-Yugoslav and Croatian independence movements. Today, Zagreb is calm city and the industrial centre of Croatia, reflected in the variety of shoe, clothing and jewelry shops in the downtown area. On the first day of the trip, we walked up the funicular stairs to observe the quaint old buildings of the medieval era contrasted with the modern skyscrapers in the distance. A short walk away is Zagreb’s iconic St. Mark’s church, known for it’s beautiful red, blue and white patterned roof along side medieval coat of arms and the emblem of Zagreb. All the early morning walking called for a coffee and some snacks which led us to Kavana Lav and Dubravika. Kavana Lav has a beautiful interior with more than enough chairs and beautiful paintings. The patio opens up to the cobblestone streets and is perfect for people watching. The long line out front of Dubravika speaks accurately for the quality of the food with a variety bread, sandwiches, pizzas and pastries to meet your every craving. 

Ljubljana and Bled, Slovenia

After a short stop in Zagreb, we journeyed to what is in my opinion, Europe’s most hidden gem: Ljubljana, Slovenia. Even with the rain and mist clouding the road, the two hours drive into Ljubljana was stunningly beautiful as we passed small mountain villages with their simple, timeless buildings enshrouded by trees. According to the legend of the foundation of Ljubljana, a Greek mythological hero named Jason encountered a dragon at a large lake where he courageously fought and defeated the monster. Somewhat ironically, Ljubljana is known as the city of dragons with the it’s symbol scattered through the city as a symbol of protection, particularly on the Dragon Bridge.With bridges arching over a quiet canal and an assortment of bars, boutiques and cafes, it’s easy to feel lost in time (or shopping). We stopped at Klobasarna for the perfect cheap, Slovenian winter lunch of Carniolian sausage with soup and bread. 

However, the highlight of my day was without a doubt the views from the Ljubljana Castle. We coincidentally began to hike up to the fortress around sunset, which turned out to be the best accident possible. Just as we approached the top, the clouds began to clear and revealed the pink reflection of the sunset over the Julian alps- a photographers dream. Constructed in the 11th century, the Castle is property of many famous leaders such as the rulers of Corniola, Ottokar II of Bohemia and Rudolph of Habsburg and even the French army. A guided tour costs 16,00 euros (23 CAD) for adults and 11,20 euros (16.349 CAD) for children. 

Our time in Slovenia was incomplete without a stop in Bled. Bled is rightly known for its castle and the view of the Alps reflecting over the lake, one of my favorite views. There is plenty to do in Bled such as a boat tour to the island in the middle of the lake or visiting Slovenia’s oldest castle, built in 1011. However, we chose to drive in a loop around the lake to take in the views from all possible angles. From the reflections on the water to the picturesque castle and island, this was truly my favourite stop on the entire trip. 

Bolzano, taly

Our final stop on our two-week roadtrip was Bolzano, Italy, the perfect mix of Italian and Germanic influences. Bolzano is characterized by it’s diverse food, architecture and mountain views. As with most of our destinations, we stopped in the Bolzano town centre for the shopping and delicious food at the Christmas market. We also made a noteworthy stop at Hopfen and Company, an 800 year old house with delicious Tyrolian food such as dumplings, pasta and sausages. However, the highlight of my time in Bolzano was the Museum of Archaeology. The museum is known for housing Ötzi the Iceman, a mummy from the Copper age over 5300 years ago discovered by hikers in 1991 with his clothes and tools preserved enough to tell the story of ages past.

One of the biggest adventures of our trip occurred while attempting to find the Chiesetta di San Giovanni with iconic backdrop of Valle di Funes. However, for being one of the most photographed views in the region, it was near impossible to find, although that was part of the fun. We explored several viewpoints around the village until we found the correct spot by Ansitz Ranuihof and adventured into a snow covered field. Our other adventures were more simple, such as exploring the picturesque mountain town of Urtijëi and hiking to Chiesa di San Giacomo. 

This two week journey was an excellent introduction to the gateway of Eastern European history, architecture and food. It was incredible how a two hour drive could offer a completely different story and history to tell. We left each location with a stronger understanding of the culture and history and appreciation for the region. It truly was the roadtrippers-dream.