The south-central state of Arkansas is less visited than some of its neighbours like Tennessee and Texas. Yet, it is a true gem that offers a rich history and natural beauty, making it an ideal exploration destination. I recently visited Arkansas to discover the “Natural State” and some of its major destinations.
Little Rock
Start your journey in Little Rock, the state capital, medium-sized city of about 200,000 inhabitants. Little Rock is home to several famous tourist attractions and has a blooming culinary scene. For convenience, the Hilton by Double Tree is a great place to stay in the downtown core. Little Rock is focusing on becoming an arts and culture centre in the South; make sure to check out the Vogel Schwarz Sculpture Garden in Riverfront Park; it’s a 10-minute walk from the hotel. It is a great place to start your visit to Little Rock, and with over 90 statues, it’s worth a visit.
After going for a walk, you may have worked up an appetite. Make sure to go to Three Fold Noodles + Dumplings. This business, owned by Chinese immigrants, brings a hip vibe while serving up hand-pulled Chinese noodles with pickled veggies, different sauces, and protein. They also make delicious dumplings and steamed buns, and their handmade bobba tea is to die for. Truly a symbol of America, it blends traditional Northern Chinese food with American modernity and hospitality.
ABOVE: The Clinton Presidential Center. (Photos: Courtesy Arkansas)
To really dive into Arkansas, you have to visit the Clinton Presidential Library, dedicated to the archiving of the presidency of the state’s most famous son. Bill Clinton was the governor of Arkansas governor prior to running for the presidency in 1992.
The museum shows the trials and tribulations of America’s first end-of-history president and the issues he dealt with, ranging from the Yugoslav wars to legal reform, gun control, and affordable care. Most interestingly, Clinton was the last analogue-era president. Binder upon binder of paper documentation that covers his time in office line the walls from floor to ceiling. It’s a massive collection of documents.
The museum also has a fabulous restaurant, 42, named after the 42nd Potus, with amazing dishes like their steak salad, cooked to perfection and priced extremely reasonably given the upscale atmosphere and quality. The library contains a private apartment for the former president, which he can stay in when he is in town.
The Civil Rights Movement and Black history in Little Rock are on display at The Mosaic Templars Cultural Centre, located on West 9th Street, a Black neighbourhood during segregation, and in its time, the centre of African American community business and culture. The Mosaic Templars building was used by its namesake Black fraternal organization, which provided burial and funeral insurance to the African American community from 1883 until the Depression shut the organization down.
ABOVE: Little Rock Central High School. RIGHT: Learn about the history of African Americans at the Mosaic Templars Cultural Center. (Photos: Courtesy Arkansas)
The museum gives important insight into what it was and is like to live as a Black person in Little Rock. It’s a foundational look at the treatment of Black Americans, which becomes instrumental for what should be your next stop: Little Rock Central High School.
In 1957, nine African American students wishing for a better education were reluctantly allowed to attend Little Rock Central High School, a massive post-secondary facility offering a far higher quality of education. Even though it had been three years since Brown vs. the Board of Education had stuck down segregation in the federal school systems, the law had yet to be enforced.
When the nine students first tried to enter their new school, they were greeted by a near-lynch mob of angry white residents. The governor of the state had called in the National Guard to prevent the students from entering.
After receiving a plea from the mayor of Little Rock, President Eisenhower called up the 101st Airborne Division (under the guise of the Insurrection Act of 1807) and then placed the Arkansas National Guard under federal authority.
It is commonly known history that the students were then escorted into the school by the U.S. forces, but what is less known is the racism and abuse that they faced inside the school. The on-site Federal Park Rangers are passionate about preserving the history, and their lecture and walking tour it is definitely worth attending.
ABOVE: Featuring a wide variety of international art and completely free, make sure to visit the Arkansas Museum of Fine Arts.
For something lighter, head to The Esse Purse Museum & Store, one of only two purse museums in the world. Focusing on what has gone into purses since the early 1900s, it’s a nostalgia trip for all generations. Little Rock’s Arkansas Museum of Fine Arts is another worthwhile option, showcasing artwork from the Middle Ages to the present day. The gorgeous architecture alone makes it worth a visit, not to mention, it is completely free to visit.
When the hunger pangs strike, check out Lost 40 Brewing. It might be the state’s biggest beer producer it has a craft beer vibe with quality beers. They have everything from German lagers to Belgian-style Saison beers that are made from wild yeast produced derived from a fig. It might sound odd, but the beers are amazing, and the food is excellent. We enjoyed the woodfire pizzas that include great topping combinations like ricotta lemon cream, artichoke hearts, and thyme.
Fort Smith
Leaving Little Rock behind, we headed to Fort Smith, a historical town that sits on what was the frontier with the West and was thus considered a hotspot for the Wild West. Get a grasp of the history by visiting the United States Marshalls Museum. The newly opened museum (July 2023) provides a great look at the history of the United States’ oldest Federal Law Enforcement agency and contains a memorial to fallen officers.
The interactive displays show the history of the rangers in an interesting and fun way, and the museum does not shy away from the mistakes of the service, rather embracing all aspects of their history.
Next up was a visit to the Fort Smith Museum of History, a museum with a charming small-town feel that is home to over 40,000 artifacts. A large part of the museum is dedicated to Western Justice on the frontier. If you’ve ever seen the film True Grit, you may remember Judge Parker. His character was based on a real judge known as the “hanging judge,” despite his personal opposition to capital punishment.
ABOVE: The Fort Smith Park Rangers give a fantastic tour of the site, including the infamous gallows — an eery reminder of frontier justice.
The Fort Smith Museum provides great context for Fort Smith’s main attraction, the Fort Smith National Historical Site. The park rangers at this fort cum 19th-century maximum security Prison turned park go over the disturbing history of the location where American expansionism was carried out with hard time and the noose.
The gallows remain standing where the hanging judge’s orders were carried out. The Park Rangers are well educated on the topic at treat it with the seriousness of a historian, while not glamorizing or romanticizing the town’s old west past.
See how the Antebellum nobility lived by visiting Clayton House. Owned by William Henry Harrison Clayton, the home is like stepping back into the 1880s. Clayton was a prosecutor in Parker’s court, and undoubtedly plays an important role in the history of the town. For a more sombre experience, visit Miss Laura’s Visitor Centre, an old Western brothel turned museum. It explores the seedier side of the wild west that history would likely prefer to forget, while portraying the woman who worked in them with dignity.
Fort Smith has wonderful food options. We dined at Talioano’s Italian Restaurant; a white-linen-tablecloth-style restaurant housed in a stately old home. At 53 years old, it’s one of the oldest restaurants in town, and with good reason — the quality of the pasta was incredible, and the service was fantastic. The cannelloni was delectable.
Bentonville
Bentonville, Arkansas is home to one of America’s biggest success stories, Wal-Mart. The city looks like it is a movie set for an idyllic Silicon Valley town with public art and murals everywhere. It’s very walkable, which is the absolute best way to take in the over 100 public art offerings that adorn the city.
ABOVE: The Walmart Museum in picture-perfect Bentonville. (Photo: Courtesy Arkansas)
Stop by the Walmart Museum Heritage Lab to learn about the history of America’s largest brick-and-mortar retail store. The museum chronicles the history of the company with a focus on its founder and CEO, Sam Walton.
ABOVE: Public art in Bentonville.
Make sure to break for lunch at Bentonville Tacos and Tamale Co. With Mexican coke, made from cane sugar, and great margaritas, their drinks alone are worth stopping in for, but their Ark-Mex style cuisine combining tamales with American-style pulled pork and homemade salsas is awesome.
Bentonville’s main attraction is the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. Owned by Alice Walton, the daughter of Sam Walton, the museum is free and has an amazing outdoor park area that is home to the twin of Maman, the giant spider by Louise Bourgeois found out front of the National Gallery in Ottawa.
ABOVE: The incredible grounds and museum at the Crystal Bridges Museum of American Art. (Photos: Courtesy Arkansas)
Built on two bridges overlooking a canal filled with art installations in a 120-acre park with interactive art, the only comparison to the grandeur of the museum is the Louvre in Paris, France. Inside, you’ll find American artworks ranging from the colonial era to the present and iconic pieces like Rosie The Riveter by Norman Rockwell, portraits of George Washington, and modern abstract art. The permanent collection includes the relocated Frank Llyod Wright home known as the Bachman-Wilson House.
There is a plethora of great temporary exhibits. When we visit, an exhibition featuring some of the works of American artist Diego Rivera was on display. Included was the flowered canoe, as well as paintings by his wife Frida Khalo.
The on-site restaurant, Eleven — named for its opening date: November 11, 2011— makes fantastic comfort food, and its location with wonderful views of the canal makes it a great spot to grab a bite to eat.
If you’ve travelled to Bentonville to visit Crystal Bridges, then make sure to stay at the 21C Museum Hotel. With its over 12,000 square feet of gallery space, you can stay among the artwork in class and comfort while being two mere blocks from downtown, where most of the best outdoor art is.
Eureka Springs
Eureka Springs is another great destination for art lovers. On your way into town, stop at the Throrncrown Chapel. This non-denominational glass-panelled church sitting in the Ozark mountains looks like something out of a fairytale and a sci-fi movie at once. It is absolutely gorgeous at 48 feet tall with 425 windows, it’s worth the quick detour.
ABOVE: The hilly town of Eureka Springs, named after a local spring believed to have healing powers, features Victorian-style architecture constructed using local rocks. RIGHT: The beautiful Thorncrown Chapel. (Photos: Courtesy Arkansas)
The town as a very relaxed B&B vibe, mixed with some great shopping and art stores. Among them, Station Gallery is a personal favourite with dozens of wonderful paintings of all varieties; Zarks Gallery which features Contemporary art, such as Basquits and redone in stained glass, among modern art of all kinds; Wilson & Wilson Folk Art is also a cute spot to hit with more charming artwork; The Quicksilver Gallery features beautiful custom-made artworks from ceramic, jewellery and glasswork.
ABOVE: The Crescent Hotel in Eureka Springs. RIGHT: The winding, steep roads in Eureka Springs have earned it the nickname, the Stairstep town. (Photos: Courtesy Arkansas)
Eureka Springs biggest claim to fame is the Crescent Hotel and Spa. Considered one of the most haunted hotels in America, it has a great ghost tour that’s worth taking, but don’t let that distract you from the great view of the Ozarks and the great amenities, including the on-site spa and outdoor pool that make it a great vacation spot. Don’t ask the staff about ghosts though… don’t do it. However, do eat at the Italian Restaurant, La Cena, the food is excellent!
Eureka Springs offers a charm and artsy side to the town, which is completely unique with incredible architecture.
Fayetteville
Located about an hour from both Bentonville and Eureka Springs is the college town of Fayetteville. It is so perfect; it looks like a film set of a university town. However, nestled in the Ozark mountains, Fayetteville has a charming aesthetic with its redbrick buildings and beautiful natural surroundings.
The state does not have an NFL football team, so people make the pilgrimage to Fayetteville to watch the Arkansas State University Razorbacks, who are nothing short of a religious symbol in town.
ABOVE: Sweat off Arkansas’ decadent cuisine by having a coffee and a climb at Boulders and Brews.
After a few days of Italian foods and craft brews, work off those extra calories with some Caffeine and Climbing at Boulders and Brews. It’s a great freestyle gym for rock climbing with a knowledgeable staff who will teach you how to fall and climb, they also serve up some great coffees and teas.
Before hitting the bike trail, stop for some classic American food at Mockingbird Kitchen. The restaurant specializes in Ozark cuisine with a touch of class. Try their fish and grits, biscuits and gravy, or fried chicken with bacon gravy. It’s a really great spot, and you’ll need the calories since there are 50 miles of trails around town.
We rented bikes from Spin, available all over the town like Bixybikes in Toronto or Montrael. En route, you can stop for a break at some great spots like Pink House Alchemy, a bakery and coffee shop with one of the best iced matchas anywhere.
For dinner in Fayetteville, consider Rolando’s Nuevo Latino Restaurant, with a pan-American menu of Central and South American classics from Argentina to Ecuador; it’s a great spot to try some food that is different from the predominantly Mexican cuisine on offer.
In Fayetteville, consider staying at the Graduate Hotel. It has a rustic but clean feel that pays homage to its location in the Ozarks, while also being a shrine to the Razorbacks. It’s a comfy place to stay and is located right downtown!
The Ozarks is a Southern destination where the locals are hospitable, the food is great, there is a vast amount of history and a distinctly refined but definitely American art culture. Travel to the Natural State; you won’t regret it!
For more information on visiting Arkansas, visit www.arkansas.com.
