New Hampshire is a Grand Panorama for the Adventure Traveller
ABOVE: Jericho Mountain State Park in full autumn bloom. (Photo: New Hampshire Division of Travel & Tourism)
Earth and sky, woods and fields, lakes and rivers,
the mountain and the sea, are excellent schoolmasters,
and teach some of us more than we can ever learn from books.
John Lubbock might very well have been writing about New Hampshire when he penned those words. If you love adventure travel, you’ll love this state, and the state of mind you’ll experience. It’s an easy, one-day road trip from Ottawa through the very scenic Eastern Townships. Crossings at various points along the border are located on two-lane roads with very little traffic. Take the Autoroute 30 bypass around Montréal and you’ll have smooth driving all the way.
The Great North Woods Region
The North Country is a fulsome, wild place where tourism maps indicate the best places to spot moose. It’s located north of the White Mountains with a mountainous character all it’s own. The roads are quiet except for formidable logging trucks and the scenery invites lots of stops. A humble sign indicates the 45th parallel exactly halfway between the North Pole and the equator. Dixville Notch State Park has plenty of well-marked trails that ascend alongside mountain cascades to breathtaking vistas.
Take note that mountain trails are not your typical walk in the park. Trails are laced with tree roots and the surfaces of rocks can be extremely slippery when they are covered in moisture. Remember that it is more difficult to descend a slope because your centre of gravity tends away and your feet can slide out from underneath you. Resist the urge to lean back, bend your knees and crisscross the trail on an angle. And, most importantly, plan a weather-flexible schedule for any mountain activities.
The Androscoggin River winds its way through the broad wilderness over swifts and rapids. Numerous put-ins provide access to long stretches of flat water. Northern Water Outfitters is a full-service guiding and rental business located upstream in Errol. You can get flat water canoes and kayaks, plus a shuttle service to explore on your own, or book rafting on class II rapids that are perfect for families and novices.
ABOVE: I spent 30 minutes on the side of the road internalizing this scene. I wanted to spend the entire day paddling through the pickerelweed and around distant bends where a moose might have found tender shoots. It’s these still moments of memories lived that gratify the journey, and New Hampshire offers plenty of such moments.
Softly as a cloud we go,
Sky above and sky below,
Down the river; and the dip
Of the paddles scarcely breaks,
With the little silvery drip
Of the water as it shakes
From the blades, the crystal deep
Of the silence of the morn,
Of the forest yet asleep.
— Archibald Lampman (1861-1899)
Where to stay:
The Tall Timber Lodge on Back Lake just outside of Pittsburgh has been in business since 1946 and has maintained its original rustic character while keeping its rooms and cabins up to date. It’s a carefree childhood memory of summers at the lake. The setting issues forth a deep tranquility that is only disturbed by the early-morning biting of fish. Its dining room rivals the best menus of any big city restaurant, as does the beer and wine list. Order a cocktail and it will arrive at your table doubled, quite literally in two glasses. The ambiance is casual and it’s a great place to chat with other travellers.
Where to eat:
The Full Send Bar and Grill in nearby Pittsburg serves up the heartiest breakfasts you’ve ever seen, perfect fuel for a day of hiking and paddling. Mostly Muffins (the name says it all) is in Colebrook, also nearby. And, the Back Woods Tavern in Errol is just up the road from Northern Waters Outfitters where you’ll find a menu with substantial dishes and lots of creative variety.
The White Mountains
This is the most pristine mountain region east of the Blue Canadian Rockies, or the American ones for that matter. It is compact by comparison with plenty of territory to cover, filled with luxurious amenities, glamping, state parks, excellent roads, shopping, wineries, and tourist attractions. Fall colours are on the horizon.
Where to stay:
There’s a very unique accommodation option nestled in the woods between Conway and Mount Washington called Alpine Garden Glamping. This family-run business spans two generations in the local camping and hospitality sector. Glamping is offered in the most delightful cabins, “hobbit houses,” and a treehouse. There’s a heated pool, antiques, and fantastic landscape features throughout the site. Best of all, cabins include a vintage turntable and you can borrow classic LPs from Alpine’s store. It’s a true labour of love. Note: the treehouse may not be suitable for everyone due to a very narrow spiral staircase that separates beds from the bathroom. Book according to your mobility. Also, note the big puddles and consider footwear.
ABOVE: Alpine Gardens Treehouse. (Photo: Michael Bussière)
The Alpine Garden Winery is located in an impressive building just as you enter off the road. Ryan Classen is the second generation I mentioned (sister Bree runs the glamping) and a natural wine grower whose devotion to the craft takes him to the southern hemisphere annually for research and studies. Ryan’s pioneering wild fermentation process in the extreme conditions of a mountain region produces a line of outstanding natural wines and ciders. He’s personable, enthusiastic, and loves to share knowledge as he pours the living history of New England apple growing into your glass.
Head west from Alpine Garden Glamping through Crawford Notch State Park, where trails and waterfalls abound, and you’ll eventually see the magnificent Mount Washington Hotel, set against the backdrop of the highest summit in the northeast US. The hotel itself is worth a visit whether you stay there or not. It tells the story of world-changing history from the time of WW II when a global summit of leaders formulated the basis of the international monetary system. Just west of the hotel is the turn for Mount Washington itself, accessible on foot for the intrepid, by car for the gutsy, and by the world’s first cog railway.
The Mount Washington Cog Railway is a marvel of 19th-century engineering ingenuity. Sylvester Marsh grew up in Campton NH and, like all great inventors, saw an opportunity; in this case, bringing tourists effortlessly to the summit. Marsh figured out how to get a train up a slope whose pitch made conventional rail transportation impossible. His solution was a rack-and-pinion system that converts rotational motion into linear motion, like on a bicycle.
ABOVE: Ascending the cog through the fog. (Photo: Michael Bussière)
Once on board, a guide ensures that you arrive filled with knowledge and anecdotes. One fact that is stressed is that Mount Washington has “the world’s worst weather!” That can mean anything from dense cloud cover to torrential rains and gale-force winds, as was the case, our guide dutifully pointed out, the day before we ascended. I think he was underscoring our weather luck that culminated in a brilliant burst of sunlight at the top after a fog-wrapped trip up. There are plenty of interesting exhibits pertaining to geology, weather, botany, and all things high elevation at the summit, plus full amenities and a souvenir shop.
ABOVE: The summit of Mount Washington. (Photo: Michael Bussière)
Option number two for gaining elevation is the Aerial Tramway up to the 4,080-foot summit of Cannon Mountain where you’ll be able to see four states and north to Québec. The tramway is located as you head down through Franconia Notch State Park toward the lake district to the south. Nearby, the Black Mountain Burger Co. in Lincoln is a great place to grab a bite.
North Conway offers excellent shopping, dining, outlet malls, and attractions.
About 20 minutes to the east of Alpine Glamping is the vibrant town of North Conway. Begin your day at The Met Coffee House, right smack in the middle of the best walking and shopping. Manager Melissa Daley is a delight and her café offers the best coffee and breakfast you’ll find anywhere on your travels. The Met is located right across from Zeb’s General Store, an emporium of the fun and practical that is right out of a movie. A little to the south of the Met is the New England Ski Museum, a fascinating place that traces the history of boards on snow back 8,000 years. It’s in one compact room that filled with information. 30 minutes on a rainy day was enough to absorb everything. If you want breakfast a bit closer to Alpine, The Sunrise Shack is a very popular place located about halfway to town, so again plan to go if you’re headed in that direction.
There are plenty of dining options located along the main strip through town. Barley & Salt is a big venue buzzing with great vibes. It’s also a tap house that boasts New England’s largest selection of craft beers. Be prepared for big servings. Thanks to Barley’s innovative chef Ben Williams for an excellent evening and hospitality. Ben’s other restaurant, located just to the south, is the Black Cap Grille.
If time permits, there are two must-do’s based out of North Conway. The Mount Washington Recreational Path is a 2.9 mile (4.6 kms) network of multi-use recreational trails. The Conway Scenic Railroad offers heritage train rides through the Mount Washington Valley and the Crawford Notch. The tracks are visible from the road in spots and the vistas must be incredible.
New Hampshire’s Lakes Region
Head south down a choice of routes and you’ll arrive below the mountains into a region sparkling with water. Give yourself plenty of time to stop at the rest stops to take in the scenery. If you choose the Franconia Notch route down 93, stop in to North Woodstock for good coffee and supplies. A short drive out of the village is Sculptured Sand, a brand-new fall exhibit in which the best sand sculptors from around the world gather to form whimsical creations nestled along a forest trail. You may also want to visit on your way back up the 95 along with the tramway, but plan to do Sculptured Sands first so you’re not backtracking and making a long drive home even longer.
Lake Opechee is a huge body of water with many fingers and bays connecting it to even more water. The city of Laconia sits on the south shore of Opechee, and right on that shore is the Lake Opechee Inn and Spa. It’s housed in a restoration of an old industrial building and features 34 guest rooms, all with luxury linens, gas fireplaces, some with spa tubs, and all with balconies overlooking the lake. It is restful, offers a full-service spa on the main floor, and is hosted by two ‘best in show’ golden retrievers whose adorable faces are featured on just about everything. There are guest rooms ready to receive your pooch travel companions. Attached to the Inn is the excellent O Steaks & Seafood where you’ll find a menu, drinks and wine list to rival any big city steakhouse, with the bonus of beautiful views of the lake from both the dining room and the heated patio. The Inn is a short walk from the historic town of Laconia where delicious coffee and breakfasts are served right around the corner on the main.
ABOVE: Lake Opechee Inn and Spa. (Photo: Jumping Rocks Photography)
History buffs will appreciate the Wright Museum of World War II in Wolfeboro, about a 45-minute drive away. The museum was the brainchild of David Wright, a marine who fought in the Korean War, and whose Wright Line of computer accessories, furniture and supplies led to over 70 US patents. Opened in 1994 as the fulfillment of a personal vision, the Wright Museum is replete with stories, artifacts, and archives that tell the story of the war effort on the battlefield and on the American home front.
The lakes can be explored in a variety of ways. The EKAL Activity Center is located between Church Landing and Town Dock in the centre of Meredith on Lake Winnipesaukee. It’s an easy, sandy launch for a rental canoe (nice and wide for stability beneath a novice paddler) or kayak for exploring the vast western shore of the lake, or for putting in bright and early to catch the sunrise when the lake resembles a mirror. On a completely different note, Haunted Winnipesaukee is a 1.5-hour sunset cruise that sets off from Weirs Beach. A theatrical host relates the spooky stories that the lake has to tell, everything from ghosts to alien abductions, complete with a bar service and a dessert sampler. It’s a lot of fun and makes for a very relaxing evening.
Just off of the lakeside thoroughfare is Meredith’s old main street and a lovely district built around the old mill falls, where shops and restaurants are set in off the street, making for a fine pedestrian experience. Giuseppe’s Pizzeria and Ristorante serves everything you love in Italian fare with several levels of dining and a patio that puts you right next to the tumbling water. Right next to the EKAL Center is the Lakehouse Grill, and it is a true grill that specializes in seafood and steaks, open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The views over the lake make for pleasant dining.
Now, question: what do you get when a serial entrepreneur/marketing executive, an airline pilot, and a structural geologist who studies ground water put their heads together in a mutual career pivot? You get a truly one-of-a-kind winery, eatery, and music venue. Hermit Woods is filled with stories, and I thoroughly enjoyed an afternoon of tasting and listening attentively to Bob Manley, the marketing exec and co-founder. The whole venture buzzes with the brilliant enthusiasm of these three very cool fellows. Meredith Woods was indeed home to a hermit named Joseph Plummer. His life story is found on the Hermit Woods website, and makes for fascinating reading.
ABOVE: Hermit Woods patio and Meredith Street Dance. (Photo: Bob Manley)
Hermit Woods’ catalogue is the result of years of experimentation in the blending of fruits. A tour of the wine cellar reveals vats of blackberries, blueberries, and even green tomatoes. Believe me when I say that it is unlike any other winery you’ll ever visit or taste, and I mean in the world. Local raw and unfiltered honey adds balance to a multi-berry “melomel” (fruit mead) in what’s labeled “Red Scare”. The sparkling Winnipesaukee rosé combines cranberries and apples. Delicious. Think semi-dry rosé on a warm summer’s afternoon on the porch. My personal favourite was the Ozark plum, made solely from the locally-grown, purple-skinned, white-fleshed fruit and delicate in flavour.
ABOVE: Hermit Woods Songwriter RoundUp is. RIGHT: Award-winning wines from Hermit Woods Winery. (Photos: Bob Manley)
Hermit Woods Winery also features a very inviting music venue in its loft. It is a true listening room with a professional sound and lighting kit and a Yamaha C3 Grand Piano. It’s also Hermit’s home to the Loft Wine Tasting Experience. Food is available upstairs and on the deck, and features charcuterie, cheeses, and salads and other pairings that go great with a glass or a bottle. I wish I lived closer, for the wine and for the great company.
New Hampshire is a grand panorama indeed. Plan with a map to maximize your time, because, “the greatest gift of life on the mountain is time. Time to think or not think, read or not read, scribble or not scribble—to sleep and cook and walk in the woods, to sit and stare at the shapes of the hills,” as Phillip Connors wrote. That’s what I’d hoped to find, and that’s why you should take the time to visit New Hampshire soon.
For more information, go to: www.visitnh.gov
