Rails and Rugged Beauty: The Wild West on the Rocky Mountaineer
In 2008, I took the Rocky Mountaineer from Vancouver to Banff with my nine-year-old daughter. It was truly the trip of a lifetime, featuring a special Christmas excursion complete with activities for kids, like Santa appearing on a snowy hillside. Although the Rocky Mountaineer no longer runs winter trips, its Vancouver to Banff route remains one of the world’s great train journeys. In 2021, Rocky Mountaineer introduced its “Rockies to the Red Rocks” route in the USA, a two-day trip that travels from Denver, Colorado, to Moab, Utah, with an overnight stay in Glenwood Springs, Colorado. They also launched Gold Leaf and SilverLeaf Plus Service, which offers access to lounge cars with upgraded beverages and extra seating space. I immediately put it on my travel bucket list, hoping it would be as great as my first Rocky Mountaineer experience, and I’m pleased to report it was just as memorable.
The Rocky Mountaineer Red Rocks Route departs from Denver, a city set at the edge of the Great Plains and just east of the Rocky Mountains. Known for its stunning views, incredible restaurants, nightlife, museums, shops, and vibrant atmosphere, Denver is worth exploring before boarding, and you should plan for at least two full days to make it worthwhile.
The Rocky Mountaineer departed from Denver on a bright, sunny morning at 8 a.m. Upon arriving at the station, I was immediately struck by the train’s striking blue and gold exterior and its expansive windows. As you board, the friendly and professional staff assist with seating and provide an overview of the journey ahead. Boarding is smooth, with staff helping with luggage and guiding passengers to their seats. As the conductor’s “All Aboard” echoed over the speakers, the train gently rolled out of Denver. A hearty, healthy breakfast is served as you embark on a two-day scenic journey to Moab, Utah, which will pass through some of America’s most stunning landscapes.
As we approached the mountains outside Denver, the rugged beauty and timelessness of Colorado became almost surreal. The Rocky Mountaineer climbs steadily from Denver into the mountains at 30 to 35 mph, winding through the famous “Big 10 Curves” and passing through 47 tunnels. The journey is a comfortable ascent, often running alongside the Colorado River (which accompanies the train for much of this leg), is over 1,400 miles long and has carved out some of the most iconic landscapes in the American West.
The Rocky Mountaineer’s spacious, custom-made bi-level glass-domed windows offer stunning panoramic views. At times, the scenery feels like you are in a Norman Rockwell painting—it’s so vivid and breathtaking. Over the two days, I spent hours between cars in the outdoor viewing area, marvelling at majestic eagles, diving hawks, and vibrant valleys. I also spotted deer, marmots, elk, and even a herd of bighorn sheep. The landscape is so beautiful and vast that I found myself taking too many photos in an attempt to capture every moment. I decided to set my camera aside and simply immerse myself in the moment. I found the entertainment and bar car to be the most relaxing, with plush, spacious seats that offer incredible views through the expansive windows.
I was booked on the train’s GoldLeaf service, which is a luxurious experience. The meals, including breakfast, are all gourmet cuisine inspired by the chefs from Colorado. You’ll taste local wines and great craft beers.
Rocky Mountaineer hosts provide great info and insights about the history, geology, and wildlife of the areas you pass through and share local lore, trivia and other fascinating stories and facts. One highlight was learning about the engineering marvel of the 6.3-mile-long Moffat Tunnel, which cuts through the Continental Divide at 9,239 feet. The tunnel’s construction in 1928 involved moving three billion pounds of rock and was so precisely executed that the two sides met in the middle within an inch of each other.
I found a sense of camaraderie with other passengers who were equally enamoured with the Rocky Mountain adventure. It made for enjoyable conversation, and I had the opportunity to meet new people and make a few new friends.
After crossing the Continental Divide, the train follows the Colorado River to Granby and makes its first overnight stop in Glenwood Springs. This picturesque town is famous for its hot springs, including the largest mineral pool in the U.S., perfect for a relaxing dip after a day of travel. We stayed at the charming Hotel Maxwell Anderson (formerly Hotel Denver), conveniently located across from the station. (Rocky Mountaineer staff manage your luggage seamlessly, ensuring it’s in your room by the time you arrive).
Glenwood Springs offers a range of activities, from hiking and biking in Glenwood Canyon to white-water rafting on the Colorado River. The historic downtown area features unique shops, cosy cafes, and exceptional farm-to-table local dining. History buffs will appreciate the Hotel Colorado and the Frontier Historical Museum, while nature lovers shouldn’t miss the Hanging Lake Trail, known for its stunning waterfall and emerald-green lake.
Morning comes early, and the train pulls out just in time to see a big sky sunrise as you head west toward Utah. The brisk morning mountain air is refreshing. Once onboard, strong coffee and a superb breakfast selection set the tone for the day. The train follows the meandering course of the Colorado River, carving its way through deep canyons and past towering red rock formations. We pass Glenwood Canyon, where the river seems to cut through steep cliffs as the train makes its way towards the panoramic views of the Gore Range. There is a noticeable change in the terrain the further west you go as things get drier and flatter. We passed through the scenic Palisades wine country before arriving in Moab, Utah, near the entrances to Arches and Canyonlands National Parks in the early afternoon.
As the train pulled into the red sky, red scape final stop on the outskirts of Moab, you become aware of just how far you have travelled and seen in the past two days. The contrast from the snow-capped peaks of the Rockies of Colorado to the fiery red canyons of Utah is dramatic.
The Rocky Mountaineer Red Rocks Route-Denver to Moab offers a glimpse into the untamed beauty and vastness of the American West and is a truly unforgettable adventure. Simply put, it is leisure travel at its finest.
HEADER IMAGE: Rocky Mountaineer in Byers Canyon. (Photo Courtesy Rocky Mountaineer)
