Sand Mountain outside of Fallon, Nevada.
Nevada is a place of magnificent complexities and awe-inspiring contrasts. The driest state of the U.S. is home to one of the southernmost glaciers in the country. Stunning scenery and natural beauty contrast the neon-bright lights of its cities. For wanderers ready to explore the Silver State, that magnificence awaits. However, towns rich in history, brimming with character — and characters — are also what is in store.
Heading directly into Nevada is an option, but another route is to fly into Salt Lake City and access the state through Utah. (Speedsters will love a quick stop at the Bonneville Salt Flats, made famous by movies like The World’s Fastest Indian.)
Gun-toting, cigarette-smoking Wendover Will welcomes you to Nevada from Utah. RIGHT: The magnificence of Angel Lake in the East Humboldt and its alpine landscape juxtaposes the sagebrush of the desert below.
Greeting near the state line is Wendover Will, a giant, 63-foot neon statue. There is no question you have entered cowboy country. Zig zagging your way across along the Cowboy Corridor, the Loneliest Road in America (not the world, that distinction belongs to Labrador!) and the Great Basin Highway will provide a journey that will satisfy every adventurer.
Cowboy Corridor
About two hours down the road from Will is a town called Wells. As you drive around, you will pass through many towns like Wells and each bears witness to the evolving history of the state. Some have fared better than others, but they are all examples of the resilience of the people. Nevadans are hearty people.
Near Wells lies the East Humboldt Mountain range. Surprisingly, Nevada is the most mountainous in the Lower 48, with more than 300 individual mountain ranges. (Nevada even means “snowy” in Spanish.) Take the sagebrush-swept high desert road that leads to glacier-carved Angel Lake, sitting at 8,500 feet. There is some great hiking here. The drive up and down offers an incredible view of the area. Stunning.
Hang your Hat in Elko
Elko was a legendary rough-and-tumble cowboy town in its early days. There were 45 bars in the small town in 1869, more than any other business at the time. Today, stop by the Silver Dollar for a cold one. It was a historical bar that closed down but re-opened under new management. It is haunted . . .
Sam, the hospitable Nevadan at the Silver Dollar, shares the lore of the bar and Elko’s history. RIGHT: Handcrafted saddles and cowboy gear at J.M. Capriola’s in Elko.
Bing Crosby loved Elko, and so will you. Crosby was named honourary mayor and even had a world premiere of one of his movies in the town. For a cowboy culture immersion, visit the Western Folklife Center, which organizes the internationally renowned annual National Cowboy Poetry Gathering in January.
The discovery of silver and gold in the 1800s attracted immigrants to Nevada, including Basques from Spain. Their influence is everywhere along the Corridor. Enjoy a Basque meal at The Star Hotel. Walk off your gigantic meal by checking out the murals around town. They offer insight into the history of the region.
The peaks off in the distance in Elko are the Ruby Mountains, Nevada’s wettest mountain range and a mere 35-minute drive away. The Lamoille Canyon scenic drive to get there is absolutely breathtaking. This spectacular byway climbs through the glacier-carved canyon to 8,800 feet. There is fabulous hiking at the end. Or just stop and breathe.
The stunning roads of the Lamoille Canyon are peaceful and quiet. RIGHT: Alpine meadows in the Lamoille Canyon.
Johnny Cash sang about Winnemucca’s dusty roads (it has sand dunes nearby), but the place is all about Basques and Buckaroos, a regional term evolved from the Spanish word ‘vaquero,’ or cowman. There is a small Buckaroos Hall of Fame to learn more about it.
The town is home to the historic Martin Hotel, which serves outstanding Basque cuisine. Legend had it that Butch Cassidy was behind a major bank robbery in Winnemucca and later sent a picture of his crew in brand-new suits and a thank-you note to the bank. Great story, but it is just mythology. Still, there is a dive bar named in his honour.
Back on the highway, outside of Winnemucca, stands the weird and wonderful Thunder Mountain Monument. That is a great thing about Nevada, you can be driving along and then voilà, in the middle of nowhere is a handmade, wacky open-air art installation created over decades.
Reno has a rich history. Explore it on foot with self-guided tours. Stroll along the Truckee River Walk and do not miss the National Automobile Museum. Splurge and sleep at the Silver Legacy Resort Casino. A little affordable luxury never hurt anyone. And, of course, there is gambling.
Reno’s neon signs light up the night sky. RIGHT: Creative public art decorates downtown Reno.
No trip to Nevada is complete without a ghost town visit. Virginia City, home of the largest silver strike in the world, is captivating and enchanting. A beautiful 40-minute drive from Reno, it is remarkably well-preserved with a vibrant joie de vivre that is palpable. (Mark Twain was a big fan.) A haunted saloon hop is de rigueur, and The Washoe Club is a must. Catch live country music at Bucket of Blood Saloon. It stands on the remnants of the only Black-owned western saloon of the era (1800s). It is a great place to meet locals.
Take a walk back in time in Virginia City. RIGHT: The historic Bucket of Blood Saloon in Virginia City.
The contrast between sin and salvation in Virginia City is delicious. Check out the many churches that offer a different look at the town.
One of the most famous railways in its time, the Virginia and Truckee, offers steam train rides. The guides provide a great history of mining in the region. Mining was critical to the whole state.
The Loneliest Road In America
As you pass through towns along US 50, such as Fallon (a Top Gun filming location), Austin, and Eureka, all rich with mining history (Eureka being aptly named), the Loneliest Road couldn’t ring less true.
Petroglyphs at Grimes Archeological Site provide a glimpse of creativity from the past. RIGHT: Grab a bite at the historical Middlegate Station, where the Pony Express, the mail carriers of days gone by, stopped to refresh.
While these towns are small, fascinating people live in them, and the journey between them holds many surprises. Some of the oldest petroglyphs in Nevada, the Grimes Archeological Site, are just outside of Fallon. Continue down the 50 to the Sand Mountain Recreation Area that feels like a scene out of Star Wars with its 3 km-long sand dune. Middlegate Station restaurant, established in 1850, welcomes you “to the middle of nowhere,” which it is. Grab a monster burger and a beer before heading to Austin, which has Nevada’s oldest bank building. Need to whet your whistle? Hit Eureka next at the Owl Club Saloon down from a historical opera house (yes, you read that right) and meet the colourful characters there.
If you plan on a trip this October, try to time it to be in Ely on October 14 for the Ring of Fire annular (not annual) solar eclipse festival.
For a real understanding of the area, there is nothing like a self-guided walking tour.
The Great Basin National Park (and Highway)
Lehman Caves in the Great Basin National Park.
Great Basin National Park is an absolute national treasure. Fabulous hiking and dark skies await. Tour the Lehman Caves, but book in advance. The Park is home to the only glacier in Nevada and hundreds of species of living creatures, including mammals, reptiles, birds, amphibians, and fish. It is a much more intimate park than others (it has roughly 142,000 visitors a year versus the over 400,000 to parks like Yellowstone.)
The Wheeler Peak Glacier sits at the base of Wheeler Peak (in the range of 12,000 feet in elevation.) There is hiking for all levels in the Park (although the Peak is a major time commitment and requires planning.)
The Highway
The drive on the Great Basin Highway, Highway 93, is magnificent; in many ways, this is the lonelier road. It is a wide, vast expanse and peaceful with stunning landscape.
Juxtapose the Basin’s beauty with Pioche, a once rowdy bawdy town made rich by mining, where guns ruled, about two hours away from Great Basin. It is hard to imagine there were once 144 saloons in this very small town. (There are still a few! Try the Alamo.) Stay at the Overland Hotel and soak in the history of the area. This is a town brimming with kind people and lots of character.
Contrast again comes into play with the natural wonders of nearby Cathedral Gorge State Park. A couple of hours down the road is the absolute must-see Valley of Fire State Park. The sculpted landscape of both these parks is captivating. Visit both.
Highway 93, The Great Basin Highway, is beautiful and provides peaceful solitude. RIGHT: The fantastic patterns of Cathedral Gorge appear to be carved in the soft bentonite clay but were instead created by erosion.
The Highway ends near Vegas, the antithesis of a lonely place. But that is another adventure.
There is much more to Nevada to explore, but this is a journey that will be filled with wonderful people in every town who are kind, full of stories and ready to welcome you with warm hospitality.
For more information on travel to Nevada, visit travelnevada.com.
Want to explore Las Vegas, check out this article.
New Hampshire Division of Travel & Tourism