Head to Kawartha Lakes for Great Paddling and Family Fun
The City of Kawartha Lakes has been a popular destination northeast of Toronto for generations, but don’t let the “city” part throw you off. It is in fact, home to charming towns and villages connected by pastoral landscapes, storybook farms, and an abundance of picturesque lakes and waterways. It is also just the right distance from Ottawa for an easy getaway with plenty to do and discover. Here are some newly-mapped paddling routes that suit everyone from the novice and families to the experienced backcountry paddler.
Lindsay (44.3566° N, 78.7408° W) is located west of Peterborough on Highway 7 and comes with a fun fact. It’s home to one of the widest downtown streets in Ontario, measured to accommodate the turning radius of a four-horse hitch, just in case that’s still your favourite mode of transportation. Lindsay is also perfect for pedestrian exploration, just big enough to amble about for the day. There’s fine architecture, museums, locally-owned shops, galleries, cool restaurants and pubs, a riverwalk along the banks of the Scugug, and relaxation under big shade trees. And, a paddling launch in the south end just below Lindsay Memorial Park if you want to see the town from the water.
Just 3 km north of Lindsay you’ll find the Ken Reid Conservation Area, a 110-hectare property that encompasses protected forests, meadows and the provincially-significant McLaren’s Creek Wetland. Hikers can enjoy 12 interconnected trails that total almost 12 km, including a floating boardwalk. McLaren’s Creek connects to big Sturgeon Lake to the north, so there’s plenty of flat water to explore. The easiest way to get there is to head north up Highway 35, turn right on Kenrei Road and watch for the entrance after a few kilometres. Once there, loop all the way around to find the paddling launch.
Any fan of “The Hip” will know Bobcaygeon (44.5405° N, 78.5464° W) from the namesake song, where “the constellations reveal themselves one star at a time.” This little village on the Trent-Severn Waterway embraces this lyrical association with a laidback, romantic quality. The canal divides the village in half, with shops (and I’m talking great clothing stores) and dining on both sides of the locks. I had two meals that are now in my personal the-best-I’ve-ever-eaten-in-my-life category. The hockey-themed Wing House south on Bolton Street honoured my palette with a cheeseburger that would make Homer Simpson drool and weep, it was so juicy and delicious. And as if I wasn’t stuffed enough, breakfast north of the canal the next morning was a stack of blueberry pancakes at The Full Cup Café on Main Street. They were fluffy and fruity and worthy of a trophy.
Bobcaygeon spans three islands on the canal that connects Sturgeon and Pigeon Lakes. There is a variety of paddling routes and three launch points in the village that lead to channels every which way you may want to explore in short hops, all within reach of village amenities. Less than 15 minutes away is the day-trip option of Nogies Creek. The wetland north of the launch, located about 5 kms north of Highway 36 along Bass Lake Road, is rich in bird and beaver activity. This is an area of special conservation concern owing to its unique natural features and geology along with its abundance of fisheries and wildlife. Once the day is done, reward your efforts with ice cream at the Kawartha Dairy take-out window.
Coboconk (44.6608° N, 78.8018° W) is a bustling spot and a hub for lots of paddling excursions along rivers and into Balsam Lake and Indian Point Provincial parks, where naturally you’ll find excellent camping. Parks Canada also has oTENTiks and small cabins available at the Rosedale canal lock, about 10km to the south.
Not only is Coboconk home to what was once Canada’s smallest jail, it’s also the country’s “freshwater summit,” meaning it sits on the highest body of freshwater in the country from which you can navigate to all oceans. Imagine a major expedition that leads from Coboconk down the Gull River, through nearby Balsam Lake to the Trent-Severn Waterway, to Lake Ontario or Georgian Bay, and out to sea. Coboconk is itself an island in the Gull with two launch points and enough parking for groups.
The route named Paint and Paddle: The Group of Seven Connection runs along the Gull River and possesses deep Canadian cultural meaning, for this was a favourite plein air painting and paddling locale for J.E.H. MacDonald (1873-1932), one of the founding members of the Group of Seven, who we all know from our earliest years as school children. MacDonald planned an annual canoeing and fishing trip to Coboconk with his son, during which he painted some of his lesser known canvasses while his son fished along the banks. His 1918 pastoral “Gull River” disappeared in a high-profile art heist earlier this decade and has never reappeared, but you can find its subject’s locale south of Coboconk.
Fenelon Falls (44.5370° N, 78.7361° W) is known as the “Jewel of the Kawarthas.” It’s a perfect little town named for its picturesque waterfalls and features waterfront restaurants and parks, and plenty of interesting shops. Paddling routes in this part of Kawartha Lakes are ideal for families or novices.
If you’re looking for a backcountry expedition, head to Kinmount (44.7817° N, 78.6515° W) where you can access the vast Queen Elizabeth II Wildlands Provincial Park. This incredible protected wilderness features classic, rugged Canadian Shield topography. Designated campsites and portages are indicated with the usual orange Ontario Parks markers. You’ll need a map.
Kawartha Lakes has done a great job producing detailed route maps with launch points, interesting stops, and outfitters. For more information, go to: www.explorekawarthalakes.com/paddling. The home page has all the information you’ll need to plan your trip.
Finally, my thanks to the Eganridge Resort, Country Club and Spa for the hospitality. Its historic, square-timbered manor house is complemented by contemporary rooms in the main lodge, fine dining halls, and a pub with an outdoor terrace that all overlook the biggest lawn you’ve ever seen that rolls down to the shore of Sturgeon Lake. And, there’s a beach!
Want a taste of the city? Check out nearby Toronto.
