Maryland Reconciles with its Past and Celebrate its Natural Beauty

Written by: Mckenzie Donovan, July 3, 2023

Even though it is one of the original 13 colonies and was named after Queen Mary, wife of King Charles I, Canadians likely know the State of Maryland for Baltimore, its largest city and its neighbour, Washington D.C.

The American Civil War was fought against the secessionist Southern Confederacy largely over the abolition of slavery. At the beginning of the Civil War, although a member of the remaining Union, Marylandwas still a slave state.

Unlike other American states, the historical consensus around the legacy of slavery in Maryland is not contentious. Instead, it is an accepted dark chapter that the state is making deep inroads into reconciling.

Spending time in this historically rich state is an excellent opportunity to learn about slavery in America, and the resistance movement, while also taking in the magnificent natural beauty and culinary offerings of Maryland.

Our trip began with a drive over the Chesapeake Bay Bridge that connects the more urbanized western shore of the state with Maryland’s Eastern peninsula. Once on the other side, make sure to stop for lunch or dinner at Libbey’s Coastal Kitchen and Cocktails for some delicious seafood that is served up with a 2great view of the Chesapeake Bay. I highly recommend the Rockfish Rueben it’s made with the state’s iconic fish and is about as Maryland as you can get. Once you are fueled up, head for Cambridge in Dorchester County.

Located on the Choptank River, a major tributary to Chesapeake Bay, this small yet idyllic town has many historical residences dating back to the Revolution and Civil War eras. With its red brick streets, you might be tempted to overlook the dark reality of its early history. The story of Harriet Tubman, abolitionist and the most famous conductor of the Underground Railroad, starts in Cambridge where her ancestors arrived in the belly of a slave ship.

Today the harbour area is home to the scenic Choptank River lighthouse. Down the street in old Cambridge, there is a magnificent memorial to Tubman’s “Beacon of Hope” that shows an adult Tubman reaching out to her younger enslaved self.

Perhaps the most moving tribute to Dorchester County’s most famous daughter is the mural located on the side of the Dorchester County Harriet Tubman Museum and Educational Centre. It depicts Tubman breaking down a wall and offering her hand as if to help usher you over the divide.

The museum informs locals and tourists from all over the world about Tubman’s bravery, and about other escaped slaves. It is run by magnificent volunteers like Linda Harris, a local singer whose own descent from the enslaved people of the area spoke to her.

Harris sang songs of the underground railroad when we visited and made history seem less abstract and more alive, more breathing and palpable with a real connection to herself.

Our host for the night was The Cambridge Inn Bed and Breakfast, located between the river and downtown in the historical district is a great choice. With scrumptious breakfasts and large, comfortable rooms.

After getting aquatinted with Cambridge, make sure to head to the Harriett Tubman Underground Railroad National Historical Park. This federal- and state-funded museum and visitor’s centre is an excellent place to get to know the life story of Tubman. Watch the incredible documentary film and take in the world-class exhibition about her life story, describing her upbringing as a child born into slavery, through her aiding an escaped slave in a general store as a child, which resulted in a two-pound weight being thrown at her head, causing Tubman to suffer from epilepsy for the rest of her life.

Blackwater Adventures in Cambridge is an outdoor adventure company, but it also has ties to Harriet Tubman. Elizabeth Meredith took us to the Bucktown General Store. The family now owns the small store that operated until less than 50 years ago. It is the site where a young Harriet Tubman was hit in the head by the weight thrown by a slave master. Meredith’s children also found the first historical example of a Tubman wanted poster while sifting through garbage in the historic family house next door during renovations.

The Meredith family, who have resided in Maryland for as long as Europeans have lived in the area, offer outdoor kayaking, water sports excursions, and bike tours of the nearby Blackwater nature reserve. Their outings are the ideal way to enjoy Maryland’s amazing nature with staff whose connections to the land run deep. While out for a paddle, our guide was more than happy to point out some of Maryland’s wildlife including muskrats, ospreys, bald eagles, and their amazing nests, which can weigh one metric ton.

When you are in Cambridge make sure to go to Blue Ruin Bar and Restaurant. This speakeasy-inspired restaurant makes amazing food. From great appetizers like its Roasted Brussels Sprouts and Fried Oyster to entrees like the incredibly tasty fried chicken sliders that are so tender, you may never want to eat any other chicken sandwich again. To top it off Blue Ruins’ cocktail list is incredible, with dozens of great cocktails that are in-house specialities and old favourites. Specializing in bourbon and whiskey-based drinks, the restaurant even has its own version of world-famous Makers Mark Bourbon, all at excellent prices too!

After visiting beautiful Dorchester County, head over to neighbouring Caroline County, and the small town of Denton. With a population of under five thousand, Denton has a lively arts scene with artists in residence, beautiful outdoor artwork and murals all over town. The town’s Foundry Community Arts Gallery is a good place to stop and do some shopping for locally created art.

Make sure to visit the Fibre Arts Centre on the Eastern Shore, a restored vintage house that is a working art space and museum for quilted and sewn artworks. The open-concept space allows visitors to drop in and see the textile art being made. The centre also includes a gallery where you can purchase textile artwork.

A unique historical experience is a walk in the beautiful nature preserve Adkins Arboretum while listening to the audio program “Rooted Wisdom” narrated by historian Anthony Cohen which describes how nature impeded or helped the self-liberators and conductors of the underground railroad. Simple plants become intriguing as you learn what Harriet Tubman and her peers (like Frederick Douglas) used as homoeopathic remedies and food and what in nature proved to be obstruction and obstacle while on while on the run to freedom.

Walking around the woods worked up an appetite, so we headed to Chestertown in neighbouring Kent County. The town has a classical look that could double as a set for the movie Lincoln with a mid-1800s high-class aesthetic. A truly gorgeous town, it’s home to the Stamm’s Luncheonette, a renovated pharmacy that looks like a throwback to a 1930s lunch counter dinner, albeit with a polished aesthetic instead of old vinyl.

Stamm’s Butter Burger is one of the most delicious flat-top grilled burgers you’ll have anywhere. Add a classic-style soda fountain drink on the side, and top it off with one of their amazing in-house baked goodies like homemade Oreos or try one of their homemade ice creams. Despite sounding odd, their cinnamon basil ice cream is likely the tastiest fresh ice cream you will ever eat. They also produce more traditional flavours.

Life in Kent County revolves around the picturesque Chesapeake Bay. Known internationally as the home of the US Navy’s Atlantic fleet, it’s also a destination for its vivid natural beauty. Get your sea legs by heading out for a sail with Blue Crab Chesapeake Charters from Rock Hall in Kent County.

Cruising down the bay for an hour and a half, it’s impossible not to ponder the history of the region while also admiring the ospreys and bald eagles flying overhead. Blue Crab Chesapeake Charters offer private bookings for groups of four people or more. Being out on the water in the large sailboat offered a serene feel and a bit of a rush too.

Kent County is known for its great seafood. The Blue Heron Oyster House & Inn in Rock Hall is an excellent place to try some. Although it sits practically on the shore of the Chesapeake Bay, its relaxed vibe is not that of a traditional seafood restaurant. The Blue Heron feels like the kind of place where town folk meet at the end of a workday. After sampling the cuisine, I wanted to become a regular patron too. The oysters were so fresh and tasty that, without a doubt, they could convert any sceptic. The grouper sandwich on a brioche bun was so simple yet complete. If you prefer something that walks instead of swims, the porkchop is also incredible.

For breakfast in Kent County, head to Rock City Cafe. You get the sense that the whole town passes through this little eatery on the way to work. From a fisherman to the county commissioner, it seems to be the spot to get the classic Maryland breakfast of eggs and scrapple; a pan-fried pork loaf that gets extremely crispy when cooked. It’s something Canadians can definitely get behind!

Leaving Kent County, we headed south towards the Chesapeake Bay Bridge and Stevensville, home to the Kentmorr Marina and Maryland Fishing and Hunting, Maryland’s premier fishing charter. The boat we set sail on, the Marylander, looked like a quaint medium-large fishing boat, but it has real guts behind the engine. Whipping around the bay between the cargo vessels from as far away as Singapore and India, while fishing for Rock Bass was a definite highlight. The ship Captain Jason Seman knows lots about the history of the area and really goes out of his way to make sure you have the best time possible.

For something unexpected, head to Love Point Vineyards and Winery and relax with a nice glass of wine. This small winery was started by Tim Seppi who met his curious wife Karen after purchasing the property. Tim explains that Karen would pop over to inquire about the growing process and winemaking. After assisting with his grapes, they fell in love and married, hence the name, Love Points.

The wines are flavourful and wide-ranging in variety, with tasting options and enjoyable snack options on the side. Sitting on the beach by the Chesapeake Bay is a perfect way to say hello or goodbye to this amazing part of the United States.

But we weren’t quite done. We wrapped up our visit with what Marylanders do best, crab picking! You’d be wrong if you thought crab picking refers to hunting for the crustaceans as Tom Hanks’ character did in Cast Away. Instead, the words refer to eating crabs out of their shell at a communal table, usually with a beer. It’s a great way to socialize and make a bit of a mess while eating fresh seafood.

Fisherman’s Crab Deck in Grasonville is one of the best places to go to get the real Maryland experience. The restaurant sits on a pier in the harbour, the perfect indoor feel for a seafood restaurant. In addition to crabs, the restaurant offers all kinds of excellent seafood dishes, including great appetizers like their hush puppies. Marylanders love their crabs with Old Bay seasoning, but they also enjoy them with vinegar sometimes instead of butter—don’t knock it until you’ve tried it. There is something about sitting on a pier overlooking the water, eating crab that makes you feel closer to the food!

Eastern Maryland is not a place to miss. Natural beauty, a lively arts and culinary scene, and a sometimes dark but always fascinating history make this land a wonderful place to visit.

A days drive from Ottawa, or a direct flight to Washington D.C., makes Maryland is a great destination for families or a group of friends looking for an alternative to vacations in Maine or Virginia Beach this summer.

For more information on travel to Maryland, visit visitmaryland.org